Essence of Beauty : Art Nouveau Medallion Pendant Brooch with Diamonds

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Art Nouveau was my first art history love. An iconic movement that lasted only 15 years from 1895 to 1910. Nature, and its associations of femininity and fertility, was the dominant themes of Art Nouveau jewellery. To create artworks that expressed the essence of nature – full of life rather than an exact copy – was the dream for artisans of the time.

Similar to the English Arts & Crafts Movement, Art Nouveau was a reaction against industrialised mass-produced decorative arts, which were felt to have drained the age of of creative energy. Art Nouveau has a quintessentially French aesthetic, pieces from this era have dynamic movement and flowing naturalistic lines. it is quite unlike anything that has come before or since. I’m always thrilled to bits to find a jewel from this period.

Medallion jewels like this one are some of the most easily recognised Art Nouveau jewels. They are a natural evolution of the cameo jewel, the darling of both the Georgian and Victorian Eras, but “done to death” by the end of the 19th Century. The addition of diamonds into the profiles of maidens and goddesses began in 1899, and became known as habillés (French for ‘dressed’) and were very popular. Many medallion jewels bear the signatures of their creators, but sadly in this case the maker is a mystery.

So too is the figure depicted in the medallion. Themes frequently seen in similar pieces depict ancient Greek Goddesses such as Athena and Artemis, or personifications of the seasons, or day, night, evening or dawn. This sweet face does have a resemblance to the actress Sarah Bernhardt, who was a French stage actress and the epitome of female beauty of the time. She has a crown of leaves in her hair and is possibly standing before a cave.

Manufacture: 
Modelled in solid gold that tests between 17 – 15 carat, this piece has no hallmarks or other identifying features, the gold content has been verified by XRF test. Set with 11 small round transitional cut diamonds, with a total diamond weight of 0.165 carat. The diamonds have been verified as natural by an independent gemologist.

It can be worn as either a pendant or brooch using the fittings on the reverse – a large hidden loop allows for thicker chains or clasps to be employed. The discreet brooch fittings sit below the loop and do not interfere.

The piece measures 27.75mm x 27.75mm x 1.97mm, not including the loop or pin.
Weighs 6.11 grams.

Condition: 
In excellent condition with no faults to note. Ready for immediate wear.