Alexandra, Princess of Wales (later Queen Alexandra) was a leading inspiration for the small diamond pins of the 1880’s. A much admired figure, her favourite shapes were butterflies, swallows, stars and crescents, although there was a broad appetite for insect and animal motifs, such as the bee, lizard and frog. Brooches like this one were worn as fastenings for folds of lace, or for decorating an evening coiffure – colourless stones became much favoured for evening wear following the introduction of electric light.
Jewels of this period were often made to be worn in various ways. This piece can be worn as a pendant by attaching the removable diamond set bail, or as a brooch. At one point I believe it had the fittings to be worn as a hair pin, too – there are small threaded holes on the reverse that were often employed for this purpose, the pin hardware would screw into the small holes.
In this piece we can see the Aesthetic movement influence that took inspiration from the natural world. The little sprig that our butterfly rests upon appears as if the leaves have only just unfurled, with tight diamond buds waiting to burst into bloom.
Manufacture:
Handmade in silver over 9ct gold, and set with a mixture of old cut and rose cut diamonds, individually set in the silver top. Silver was the favoured metal in which to set diamonds at this point in time, as methods for working with platinum and white gold had not yet been invented. The piece bears no hallmarks, the metal content has been confirmed by XRF test.
The 29 natural rose cut and old cut diamonds vary in size from 2.14mm diameter to 1.3mm diameter. A further three old cut diamonds are set into the removable bail.
The piece measures 38.55mm x 14.73mm (not including the bail, which adds another 13.27mm) x 10.3mm.
Weighs 5.37 grams.
You can see a short video of this piece on my Instagram account @secret_histories or online here.
Condition:
Excellent. Ready for immediate wear.
A sweet and whimsical Victorian Era Brooch or Pendant, circa 1880, in the shape of a butterfly resting on a leafy sprig. Made in silver over gold and set with rose cut diamonds.
This jewel can be worn as a pendant courtesy of the removable diamond set bale, or a brooch.
The piece measures 38.55mm x 14.73mm (not including the bail, which adds another 13.27mm) x 10.3mm.
Weighs 5.37 grams.
