Tears of Pele : Edwardian Era Triple Drop Necklace in 18ct Gold

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Circa 1900 this exquisitely made pendant is clearly influenced by the Art Nouveau movement, blending together elements of the overlapping Edwardian and Art Nouveau periods. It is beautifully crafted with an open and youthful feeling to it. It has graceful movement when worn and carefully selected elements work harmoniously to create a beautifully balanced and arresting jewel. One the nicest drop necklaces I’ve had the pleasure of meeting.

I’ve been slightly obsessed with peridot since learning that the gems are formed in the earths mantle, coming to the surface on a wave of lava. The Ancient Hawaiian’s believed that peridots were the tears of Pele, the goddess of volcanoes, fire and lightning.

Peridot was The Stone of the Edwardian Era, being King Edward’s favourite gemstone and also his birthstone. The creamy lustre of the small pearls enhance the verdant sparkle the gemstones. A classic combination of gems from this time period.

Manufacture:
The necklace features four garnet topped doublets imitating peridots and five natural pearls. The gold is 18ct throughout. Each gemstone is held in its own 18ct gold bezel with fine milgrain detail. Two of the three drops have little leaves, which accompanied by the brilliant green of the gemstones brings to mind a dewy spring garden.

Garnet topped doublets are very curious. You find them most often in jewellery from this period – especially in pieces made in Australia, although sometimes in English pieces, too. The top of each each gemstone is made of precious gem quality garnet, adhered to a coloured glass backing. The garnet gives the stone durability, and the colour comes from the glass beneath. I can only imagine this was an ingenious way for Australian jewellers to overcome the range of gemstones available to work with. Absolutely everything that wasn’t found in Australia had to arrive by boat – a journey which at shortest took 6 weeks, and often longer. It is likely this necklace was made in Australia.

**Please keep in mind that a gem tester would have shown these stones to be garnet/citrine – it takes a gemologist to see through the sleight of hand.**

The necklace is choker length – 37cm ( 14.5″) and could be worn with an extender. The necklace has a drop of 41.15mm. The largest of the green stones is on the centre drop and has a diameter of 6.85mm. The stone at the top of the pendant is the next largest, measuring 6.2mm x 6.4mm, the two smaller stones have a 5.92mm diameter.

Hallmarked 18ct to the side of the centre drop. The necklace weighs 5.1 grams.

Condition:
In all original condition with minor wear commensurate with age and use. Ready for immediate wear.

You can see a little video of this piece on my Instagram feed @secret_histories or online here.

Description

Circa 1900 this exquisitely made pendant is clearly infuenced by the Art Nouveau movement, blending together elements of the overlapping Edwardian and Art Nouveau periods. It features four garnet topped doublets imitating peridots and five natural pearls. Each gemstone is held in its own 18ct gold bezel with fine milgrain detail. Two of the three drops have little leaves, accompanied by the brilliant green of the gemstones brings to mind a dewy spring garden.

The necklace is choker length – 37cm ( 14.5″) and could be worn with an extender. The necklace has a drop of 41.15mm. The largest of the green stones is on the centre drop and has a diameter of 6.85mm. The stone at the top of the pendant is the next larges, measuring 6.2mm x 6.4mm, the two smaller stones have a 5.92mm diameter.

Hallmarked 18ct to the side of the centre drop. The necklace weighs 5.1 grams