Antiquarian Influence : Etruscan Revival Coral Locket Necklace in High Carat Gold

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A rare and glorious Etruscan Revival locket necklace, circa 1860, featuring natural coral and buttery high carat gold. This style of jewel was popularised by Fortunato Pio Castellani of Italy, who was heavily influenced by the artefacts found in the tombs of the ancient Etruscans. Castellani’s workshop was a “must visit” for those nobles who could afford the privilege during their Grand Tour of Europe. This piece is quite likely Italian made, with beautiful coral that Italy was famous for – although it unfortunately bears no hallmarks to verify its origin.

Manufacture:
The pendant is a round medallion shape with fine gold rope and beadwork. A central spherical undyed natural coral is set into a recessed concave semi-circle. The locket compartment is hidden at the reverse, and contains room for a photograph or three dimensional memento – the circular glass window is friction fit in place with a golden frame. The pendant has a diameter of 25mm and is 11.55mm proud. The locket compartment is 17mm in diameter. The central coral is 8.5mm in diameter.

The matching handmade chain features a further eight coral beads and closes with the original barrel clasp. Each coral bead is approximately 5.5mm in diameter. The necklace measures 41cm / 16″ in length.

The necklace is unmarked, but gold content has been verified by XRF test. The chain measures 89% gold which is equivalent to 21ct, and the pendant is 81% gold or 19ct. The combined weight of the pendant and chain is 15.2 grams.

Condition:
Overall the necklace is in outstanding condition. The clasp is secure, all links of the necklace are in good repair, there are no chips or blemishes to the coral beads and the gold is free from dents. The only minor flaw is a small chip to the outside edge of the glass in the locket. This could be replaced if desired, but is invisible when worn and barely noticeable when viewing the reverse of the pendant.

Description

A rare and glorious natural coral and buttery high carat gold Etruscan Revival locket necklace circa 1860. The pendant is a round medallion shape with fine gold rope and beadwork. A central spherical undyed natural coral is set into a recessed concave semi-circle. The locket compartment is hidden at the reverse, and contains room for a photograph or three dimensional memento – the circular glass window is friction fit in place with a golden frame. The pendant has a diameter of 25mm and is 11.55mm proud. The locket compartment is 17mm in diameter. The central coral is 8.5mm in diameter.

The matching handmade chain features a further eight coral beads and closes with the original barrel clasp. Each coral bead is approximately 5.5mm in diameter. The necklace measures 41cm / 16″ in length.

The necklace is unmarked, but gold content has been verified by XRF test. The chain measures 89% gold which is equivalent to 21ct, and the pendant is 81% gold or 19ct. The combined weight of the pendant and chain is 15.2 grams.